Skiing on the worlds most dangerous border


I was very lucky to be introduced to skiing a couple of years ago by Elizabeth and her awesome family. I’ve had 2 weeks skiing and would call myself a happy intermediate. Unfortunately, every single website and advice board I checked suggested that Gulmarg was not a place for "happy intermediates" and should only be considered as the playground for the most advanced off paste skiers. Undeterred I packed my bags and with J.P and Ellie we flew off to Srinagar. from here it’s a hair raising two hour drive up the mountain to the Gulmarg hill station. First impressions. It’s a bloody big mountain and there is a hell of a lot of snow!

That evening we headed out to collect our skis from the immensely knowledgeable Yusef, who’s kindness and help in Gulmarg made our trip extra special. I started off with some alpine skis to find my ski legs before venturing off into the wild. The first 2 day where spent only Gulmarg’s only groomed "piste" the road up to the Gondola. It wasn’t long before I was searching for the bunny runs and heading off into the trees! At the end of the second day I headed back to Yusef to pick up some powder skis. Those things are damn big! I went with the logic of, If I dive in at the deep end... at least the powder is soft and won’t hurt that much if I fall over. What I failed to take into consideration was the fact that when you wipe out in powder, your skis have a habit of burying themselves. Also, it is incredible hard to make your way back up hill when the snow is a couple of meters deep. So, over the next 8 days with the support from Ellie on her snowboard I got braver and braver with my adventures off piste. After a couple of days, the weather closed in and we were set for 3 days of continuous snowfall. In those 3 days it dropped 3 meters of snow! instead of stopping to rest we headed into the shelters of the trees. Once more these provided a new and very interesting challenge. After a run through the trees you would hit the road and from the road you got a taxi back to the top to do it all over again.




Taxi!
Team Wipeout

Deep powder

Indian Army, protecting the Gondala

The morning biscuit run
After 6 days my body was starting to feel it from the abuse it was getting and J.P and Ellie agreed that it would be nice to take a day off. So, we set about the task of building a snow hole. I must say I would never like to have to dig one in an emergency. those things take forever!



to maximise our time on the powder and because we are poor students, lunch usually consisted of a couple of packets of Oreos stuffed in whilst on the Gondola. I forgot to mention one of my favourite things about Gulmarg! it was empty. In total there must have been a maximum of 20 international skiers there when we arrived. There was never a queue for the lift and there was never a need to show your lift pass as the lift operators recognised you. Now that’s my kind of hospitality. This season was abnormally quiet, and this was down to demonetization that took place in November and the heightening tension in Srinagar was making it a bad choice for international travellers. I can’t say I was sorry, but I felt bad seeing the impact that this had on the local economy.

video by Ellie Selley:


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