Darren Carkson-King Founder of pure land expeditions, runs bespoke
expeditions throughout Asia as well as South America. One of my biggest
inspirations for this research was Darren's writing on his solo Everest
expedition.
Its complex metaphor and deeply personal meaning left me with a lot of
questions that I felt needed to be explored. I was very lucky to sit down with
Daz just hours after had come off a 2 day solo trip on the Tsarap Chu.
![]() |
| Daz - Philip Bulkeley |
Speaking to Daz the day after
he finished a 2 day solo expedition on the Tsarap Chu and Zanskar. A remote
class 4-5 run in the Indian Himalayas covering 240km.
Nathan: first question, tell me
a bit about yourself and your time kayaking?
Daz: Darren Clarkson king. Ten
years ago it was Darren Clarkson.
Nathan: ten years?
Daz: paddling since I was 16 I’m
now 41. Paddled in scouts, clubs, and GB freestyle team. Yeah, got a business
and run (commercial) trips. That’s about it.
Nathan: so we are going to focus on solo kayaking. What does the
term solo mean for you?
Daz: you could be a purist like Doug Ammon’s and say that anybody
that sees you on the river or sees you driving to the put-in or at the take out
then that is no longer a solo paddle. For me solo paddling is literally just
the time on the water in isolation. So it’s not about peers. So you could in
theory get on the river by yourself and over take a group of paddlers scouting
a drop or whatever and that’s still a solo paddle. The risks are a lot less. Should
people know you’re their or pass people on the river, the risks are a lot less.
Nathan: does that make a difference to you?
Daz: yeah
Nathan: does it take away from the experience?
Daz: no, a solo trip on the lower Llugwy where you are lapping
somebody that is scouting is not as risky, if we are going to use that word as
on a river where nobody knows where you are. That has obviously got more to it.
Nathan: do you think that’s an important part of solo kayaking?
Daz: No. If risk was an important part of solo then people wouldn’t
go flat water solo paddling. It’s not about risk, it’s not about danger. It’s
about isolation.
Nathan: tell me a bit about your last solo experience.
Daz: last solo trip was about 10 hours ago. Tsarap Chu northern Himalayas
Ladakh, India. Put on about 4:30 day one paddle until about 6ish camped. Got
up the next day 5:30 at first light. Paddled the whole of the Tsarap and then
some of the Zanskar finished at half 5 6ish. Next day paddled out of the
Zanskar. So that’s the bare bones of it. Its 220km - 240km something like that.
Erm, one small portage which is always a portage. A couple of new rapids that I
ran blind. Should have really scouted. Err yeah that’s it really, just a
long trip.
Nathan: what’s going through your head before you start a solo
trip?
Daz: depends if I have done the river before it’s can I do it as
well as I did last time. If I’ve not done it before it’s like any trip that you
do for the first time. What’s in there? Is it going to be too much for me? It
is never the question, is it going to be too easy? Because it doesn’t matter. But
is it going to be too hard for me if I don’t know the river. I’ve soloed the Pindar,
Alakananda, the tons. They were the first time I had done them. I hadn’t done
them before. I had nobody telling me what was in there. So it’s all like can I
cope with what’s down there? But really. When I first think, is have I got
everything. That’s the bare bones of it. All the normal stuff you think about. If
I’m soloing, its can I cope with the river. But if I’m in a group it’s no
different. (Nathan: exactly the same though process if you were with peers?) Yeah
I mean there’s very little difference, I don’t think about what happens if I
get in to trouble because there no way. I don’t think about that. But I don’t
think about that in a group. The thought process is the same, it is just
amplified
Nathan: can you tell me about your most memorable part of that
trip? Can you describe it to me?
Daz: most memorable part of the trip?
Nathan: if there’s any one point that just sticks in your mind.
Daz: Okay, so those who have not done the Tsarap, it’s quite hard.
It’s not easy, it’s not class 3. And what would be your day 3 day 4 from Reru
falls down. Reru falls is a 5ish, maybe a 4, maybe a 5. And then you have
rapids called bastard bastard and money marathon and there’s a rapid where Pete
Clough lost his life. Erm, it’s quite hard. So. Once you have nailed Reru
and bastard bastard you start to get into it. The pressures of a little your
run out is still class 4 but you know it’s a little bit easier so. I noticed a
little bit more this time as I was quite aware that you were going to be asking
me some questions. When I got back so I was a little more conscious of my
thought processes a lot more. I’m always conscious of it but I was a lot
happier when I got into the money? Section. A lot more I was singing to
myself. You’ve got a load of flat dog water and I just remember being in
the flat water thinking life is good.
Nathan: why was that part memorable?
Daz: because it’s like obviously the crux, so that for people that
don’t know the Tsarap you start off with these box canyons there hard it’s not
class 2 is it and they’re all boxes. So you’ve got to basically trust and believe
that the stuff in there hasn’t changed really. Because if you come across a hydraulic
you’re going to get your arse kicked. Then you have got a big lake that’s about
18km long, flat. Then it drops out the end on a big landslide rapid. Then it’s
just hard, just really hard until it finishes. So you have got a crescendo
build up to the hard rapids then you have got a good few hours of hard. Then
and once you are finished its easy. It’s memorable because you know you have
done the hard bit.
Nathan: what do you want to achieve from a solo trip?
Daz: I like that question. What do you want to achieve? I think
it’s different for everyone. For some want to solo because they want to tell their
mates they have. It’s quite an ego thing. Some people solo because they don’t
have any friends. And I don’t mean that in a bad way. I mean that going
to their local class 3 run and it’s a Saturday morning and all their friends
have either gotten married or got kids or whatever so they just go paddling
when they want. I think people paddle flat water. I think a lot of people
forget that people solo on flat water and they do that because they enjoy the piece
and the solitude. So there’s a lot of reasons. Why do I solo? It changes. It
changes a lot. Why did I solo this trip? I needed to go into the river and
check out any changes because I have a commercial group going in. erm, but I
would have gone in anyway. I enjoy going in and having time to process so like I
like long days where I am by myself I paddle 11 to 13 hour days and I enjoy
that processing time I find it really really rare where I can paddle a normal 8
hour day, 6 hour day or whatever it is with peers and process. Just process
life. You can’t process life on a normal trip. Because you’re to busy talking
about bollocks to your mates. You get to the rapid like the crux rapid and if there’s
3 or 4 of you then you umm and ahh a bit about it. Can you do safety and lalalalala?
When you are by yourself its ever yes or no. its cut and dry it’s much easier
really. So at Reru falls. Reru falls is quite a big rapid, class 5. I didn’t
scout it. I should have and about half way down it had changed and if that was
with peers you would be umming and ahhing and somebody would be shouting at the
kayaker "oy you fucking dick why have you done that?" "Why did
you lead us in blind?" and there would be a bit of group dynamic. Whereas
when it’s just me it’s oh well, I made a mistake I should have scouted. Ahh
well deal with it.
Nathan: tell me a little bit more about this processing life idea.
Daz: it just means you know. Life’s pretty hectic. Let’s be honest
about this. And a lot of people just drift. Sort of through life. You go to
school, you go to college you get a job. Whereas soloing you tend to be
able to process what’s going on around you rather than say somebody is winding
you up or upsetting you, you have 12 hours by yourself to think about it. Or if
you have got some demons in your head that you need to process. You very rarely
get that chance in normal life I don’t think. Maybe you go for a pint with your
mates or whatever but you don’t have the time to really give it 12 hours’ worth
of thought. Err, that’s just personal but I’m sure people that do solo
stuff due process what’s going on in their lives. And I don’t believe that
people that solo do it for adrenalin all the time. I believe they do it because
there’s a demon they need to face or they need to or they have got an itch that
needs scratching or whatever.
Nathan: how do you feel now it’s over?
Daz: really tired. Sometimes. When I do a solo. I will take this
back a bit. Sometimes when I do a solo I will be ecstatic when I finish. Really
really alive. but if it’s a long trip one of the long multi-day solos I have
done I get to like, if I don’t know the river and I’m just like paddling it for
the first time solo. I just want, after a day. Maybe a day and a bit I just
want it to be over because I want the end to come. Not because I’m not enjoying
it but because I don’t know my distances. Where’s if I’m soloing on a river I
know I’m a bit more relaxed about things. The Tsarap. How do I feel now it’s
done? If I had the energy, I would be going back in today. I just really like
the river it’s nice. I’ve done it enough so that I know my timings really well
so that I know that 10am I need to be at this rapid, or I know that if I’m
there at 11 I am going to be late getting to camp or whatever and that’s quite
nice. It’s a bit of security isn’t it? On big trips it’s nice to have that
security at times. (Nathan: a bit of familiarity?) Not just familiarity it’s
like knowing that, there’s a margin of error isn’t there. If you paddle as a
group the margin of error is less because you have your friends there. Say that
there are 4 of you and one of you gets injured whilst in of itself it lifts the
margin of error higher because there’s more people to take account of theirs 3
people that can help. Whereas if there’s one of you. For example, I sprain my
wrist and I cannot paddle I would have to wait a day. Then that margin of error
is. The timings in order to be able to relax a lot. I might be snookered if I
hurt my wrist now and I’ve got to wait it out. I always take an extra days food
so I know that I can wait it out. Not that I have ever needed too. Not that I don’t
paddle 12 hours a day.
Nathan: Anything else you want to add or say on solo?
Daz: yeah, I thought of something yesterday morning. Err, what it
was. Yep. Is solo kayaking ego driven? Was the question that came to my head yesterday?
And err, I think for a lot of people solo kayaking is seen as ego driven by
people that don’t solo. Err, of the people that do solo I don’t think it is. There
are a number of people that solo that are quite prolific solo paddlers, same as
solo climbers. but I don’t believe it’s about ego, I don’t believe it’s about
sponsorship and I don’t believe it’s about telling the world that you have done
it. Unfortunately most solo paddlers. there are very few who aren’t assisted in
some way as athletes so they do then have to post that they have done it and
that sort of ruins it (Nathan: Catch 22) yeah. There are stories of people that
have soloed and made it into the myth and legend of our sport. But you wouldn’t
even know them if you met them in a bar, I think that’s a big part of it.
Nathan: I didn’t think ego had anything to do with it until I saw
jakes video... up to that point I have never seen a person’s solo video. I’ve read
a lot on people experiences, people thoughts because I think that’s a lot more
of why they do it. Than doing it for nice lines in a remote place.
Daz: when it comes to ego, every kayaker you will speak to, or you
will talk to in bars there is always going to be some eon involved, and there
is. There’s always going to be a bit of ego involved in anything I think. Solo
paddling I think you need to strip it bear, I’ve got this quote. There’s a song
by a guy called rev hammer. Like a folky rock singer, you probably won’t have
heard of him but he’s got an album called bishop of buffalo. One of the lines
in one of the songs is "there’s a world of indifference, but you haven’t
got to it yet." is one of the lines. That came into my head when I
was paddling this trip. Basically, a world of indifference. The river doesn’t
give a fuck about your trip. Whether you’re paddling with your mates or you’re
going to post it on FB, or you’re going to write an article. People care. Or
you hope that people care or you wish they didn’t care. But if you’re by
yourself the river doesn’t give a flying jacks ass about you. So like I said, there’s
a world of indifference. It shouldn’t matter that you’re paddling. What should
matter is thinking or meditating or praying or whatever. It’s not about
"yo, bro check me out I’m cool." it’s about where your head goes. I
think solo paddlers are quite keen on their personal stroke and challenging the
river. I can think of a lot of paddlers that think its "all about me and
the river." whereas for me I don’t care what river it is really. I really don’t
care it can be multi-day in the Himalayas, it can be class 2 day trip. But it’s
different. a class 2 3 hour trip is different to paddling multi-day hard water
its mentally different but it’s the river.

Comments
Post a Comment